Driving from Evora to Lisbon by way of Sesimbra, we stopped in Setubal first. A small, bustling city with an active port and fish market, we picked up some fresh clams before our scenic coastal drive through Parque Natural de Arrabida, into the sunset toward…

SESIMBRA

Soon after the plains of the Alentejo become hilly and seaswept, a small seaside town appeared below us: a gentle beacon of light before the endless Atlantic Ocean. Sesimbra is a mermaid of a town, lounging contentedly on the edge of the sea.

We took a staircase down into Sesimbra toward the seaside, past narrow streets, tiled and painted, each window along the stairs a glimpse into another life: a broom in a doorway, laundry in the window, drying with sweet smelling detergent. Life in Portugal.

If only I could bottle the distinctive scent of Sesimbra: the pastel de nata caramelizing nearby, the sea, and the winding streets—all floral and smoky like grilled fish. The stairs end just before we hit the Atlantic ocean, peaceful as November’s rolling surf.

Casa Sesimbra

We stayed in a studio apartment called Casa Sesimbra. With a great location and a balcony overlooking Sesimbra and the ocean, it was easy to imagine extending our stay forever…

SESIMBRA MARKET

The market in Sesimbra was a real treat—we had one of the best pastel de nata of our trip there, and ended up making a friend at the fishmongers. George was asking the fishmonger questions when a local engineer named Ali stepped in to help translate. That conversation continued because we asked him about his favorite local restaurants, and before we knew it, our new friend was drawing a map showing us to how to get to a place called A Fatima, one of his favorite restaurants, just outside Sesimbra.

That conversation turned into a coffee at the Tap House, with its home brewed beer and panoramic view…

George enjoying the panoramic view at the Tap House in Sesimbra

Ali, the Portuguese Engineer

…and then coffee turned into a meal. Ali took us to a great restaurant just outside Sesimbra, the kind of perfect Portuguese restaurant where only locals eat. The fish was extremely fresh, grilled to perfection outside, and served simply with vegetable sides, cheap wine, bread and olives…

That incredible meal turned into nearly a day’s worth of hanging out with our new friend. Ali drove us up the coast, almost all the way to Lisbon, stopping at his favorite spots along the way.

Visiting Cabo Espichel on our way to Lisbon was one of my favorite moments from the whole trip. Talk about a panoramic view…it feels like you’re standing at the edge of the world!

I’m so grateful for Ali’s willingness to spend his day with us. It reminded me of my favorite lesson of traveling:

At the end of the day, It doesn’t matter if you’ve lead different lives, or have different backgrounds or stories.

No matter where you are in the world—an instantaneous connection can so easily become a new friendship!

“We are all travelers in the wilderness of the world. And the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend ”

— Robert Louis Stevenson

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN SESIMBRA:

Marisqueiria Modesto in Sesimbra, Portugal

Marisqueiria Modesto - We left feeling elated. Great seafood and wine.

Tasca Do Isaías - (Wasn’t open when we went! I was heartbroken, and Ali confirmed: incredible seafood)

The Tap House - Brewery known for their steak served sizzling on a hot rock. Great beer too.

Casa Mateus - Elegant restaurant known for their green seafood curry. Beautiful design.

Lobo Do Mar - recommended by Ali

A Fatima - recommended by Ali

It’s not a restaurant, but definitely visit Mercado Municipal do Sesimbra (Market)

What to Order:

Crab (served in shell)

Grilled fish: Cod, Red Mullet (my favorite), Sardines, Bronzino, Horse Mackerel

Bacalhau à Brás (Scrambled Eggs with Salt Cod and Black Olives)

Prawns caught locally with a net

Clams

Fried anchovies

Corn bread - something we discovered in the grocery in Sesimbra, it’s so good with tinned cod in olive oil (and it’s gluten free)

Pastel de nata (When in Portugal!)

Vinho Verde

Percebes

Lisbon is one of my favorite cities in the world.

Ali wrote a list for George and I about places we had to visit in Lisbon…here it is.

It has everything: great food, great energy, great pastry, and great parties.

The first time I came, I stayed at Lisbon Home Hostel, in a perfect location in Bairro Alto. This time, we stayed in an apartment which I would highly recommend in Mouraria, and it’s near the restaurant where I had my favorite meal of all time. Yes, it’s that restaurant:

Cervejaria Ramiro

When one of my dear friends Emily Drummer told me her favorite meal in her whole life was in Lisbon and involved “sucking the brain out of tiger prawns.” I knew I had to try it. That would turn many off, and normally I don’t eat shrimp, but for Emily’s favorite meal ever, I was up for the challenge. And, learning that Cervejararia Ramiro was beloved by Anthony Bourdain sealed the deal. I’ve since learned that everything there is delicious…even the buttered toast.

The crab (sabateira) was amazing. The clams were incredible. The tiger prawns (carabineros) surpass any adjective I can think of presently and the wine makes you feel effervescent.

It’s tough to distinguish the effect of the restaurant from the effects of the wine. And they have percebes, one of the world’s most expensive delicacies, also known as goose barnacles.

They’re some one of the most strange and beautiful creatures I’ve ever seen. They look almost like the foot of a dinosaur. The way to eat them is kind of like a steamer clam: you have to pinch with your nail, just below where the foot meets the tail, and twist, where you pull off the outer skin and are left with something similar in shape and flavor to a steamer clam.

Percebes look almost like the foot of a dinosaur. The way to eat them is kind of like a steamer clam: you have to pinch with your nail, just below where the foot meets the tail, and twist, where you pull off the outer skin and are left with something similar in shape and flavor to a steamer clam, or a snail.

My Lisbon List

This is the list I share with friends who are going to Lisbon!

The daytime scene at A Ginghina. Photo by me.

Things To Do:

Reservatorio da Mae d’Agua das Amoreiras - 18th Century reservoir with fountains showing the history of Lisbon’s water system.

Elevador de Santa Justa - An outdoor elevator with a great view of Lisbon. It’s part of the public transportation system, and while not free, it’s cheapest with a 24 hour ticket.

Fado dinner - Fado is traditional Portuguese music that was born in Lisbon as early as 1820. It’s melancholic and often performed for diners in dimly lit fado bars.

Drink Ginghina with the locals at A Ginghina.

Eat pastel de nata

My favorite restaurants in Lisbon

Cervejaria Ramiro - For seafood lovers, it’s a spiritual experience. See above.

Sol E Pesca is lined with tins of canned seafood, which also feature on the menu. *Photo: Mabel Nash Greenberg*

Damas - has a bit of everything: It’s a restaurant, bar and nightclub, and somehow a perfect option for all three. We loved the food—it’s fresh, experimental, vegetable-forward, and reasonably priced. We had a carrot salad with olives and fresh herbs and a beautiful octopus dish. A party developed in the back while we ate, and the kitchen staff, who clearly take pride in their food, crossed items off the menu on the wall as they were 86’d. This place is cool but not “too cool,” it’s run by young people but enjoyed by people of all ages.

Casa do Alentejo - former casino comprised of two restaurants—the smaller restaurant downstairs is cheap and delicious. The food is Alentejo style, and the atmosphere is incredible.

Das Flores - Great local tavern, no street number, hard to go wrong.

Ze de Mouraria - Big portions, homey feel

Mantageira - While Belem is the obvious choice for Pastel de nata, I love this little pastry shop - the pastel de nata are always fresh and warm from the oven. You can watch the bakers make the perfect little pastries, and unlike Belem, it’s in the heart of the city. Mantageira used to be a butter shop, hence the name!

Sol E Pesca is a perfect little conserveira, or bar selling many varieties of Portuguese canned fish. The restaurant is filled with character, and the walls are decorated by the same tins that feature on the menu. Try a few like tapas with a glass of wine, and soak up the cool maritime atmosphere. It’s a great place to start a fun evening, or meet up with your friends before going next door to Pensao Amor. Which brings us to…

The entrance to Pensao Amor is unmarked, but the stairway to this former brothel hints at the personality to come.
*Photo: Mabel Nash Greenberg*

My favorite bars and nightclubs in Lisbon

Topo - This place is tough to find, but it’s a great place to start your trip in Lisbon. You have to go to the roof of a seemingly abandoned mall. They have excellent cocktails and mocktails, and a breathtaking view of the city.

A Ginghinha - join the locals here to drink Ginginha, or cherry liquor, which is hidden in vats behind the tiny bar, dispensed through little faucets in a shot glass. Add a cherry and spit the “pip” (cherry seed) with the old local men who are fixtures at this spot. If you feel like starting to drink early…I think the scene is better in the daytime! You can visit the cool church next door if you’re feeling inspired.

Pensao Amor - Fun, vibrant, raunchy club that used to be a brothel. The entrance is hidden but you know you’re in the right place when in the stairwell going up, you see giant painted murals of women with their legs open. Inside is a sex shop and many rooms which will make you feel like you’re in a raunchy version of Alice in Wonderland in the best way possible. Slightly touristy, but great fun and excellent cocktails.

Damas - Great bar/restaurant with cool people, and live music events in the back.

Galeria ze Dos Bois - Great music venue. With something happening nearly every night of the week, you’re bound to discover a cool new artist.

Places to Shop and Buy Cool Souvenirs In Lisbon

Zaratan gallery - Contemporary art gallery

A Vida Portuguesa - trendy little shop with a location in the Time Out Market. It’s not hidden but they have some cute gifts!

Conserveira de Lisboa - cool atmospheric shop selling canned fish. I love the cans and always try to bring some back as gifts and souvenirs.

Surrealejos - Great gift shop selling tile art made by artist, many with a surreal twist.

Embaixada - “Concept mall,” with nice things and a beautiful painted interior. Check out the shoes made by local designers.

What are your favorite places in Lisbon? Do you have a great suggestion for fado? Please comment below with any recommendations for places to go or singers to see!

Food Lovers Guide: Lisbon